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Vintage 1950s PIERRE BALMAIN Dress - Spectacular and Rare Designer French Black Silk + Wool w Matching Cropped Princess Jacket Size XS

Regular price $1,807.00 CAD
Regular price $2,363.00 CAD Sale price $1,807.00 CAD
Sale Sold out
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•Highlights: this is a stunning, couture-quality 1950s set by the inimitable designer Pierre Balmain, who worked for Christian Dior before leaving to establish his own design house. As early as 1949 Balmain opened a boutique in New York and in 1951 set up a company in the city in order to create his ready-to-wear collection. This esteemed French couturier dressed luminary screen icons including Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren, Rita Hayworth, and Katherine Hepburn, and he has over 50 costume credits to his name.

Now, the set...

First, the rear metal zipper and buttons all work fine; my dress form was slightly too broad across back to close safely.

Fitted, highly structured bodice features layered, twisted sheer straps over a boned satin bustier; piped checkerboard detail of silk chiffon + matte silk; nipped waist w interior petersham belt; crisp and voluminous tea-length skirt (petticoat not included); matching original princess-seamed and satin-collared topper jacket w coy satin bow to one side.

This set has all the exquisite tailored details inside and out that you'd expect.

There are not many early Balmains out there presently. If you have the diminutive waist for it, this dress easily blows away any I'm seeing out there currently. Investment quality, for the collector who seeking the very best of the era.

Note: use ShopPay at checkout to pay via four easy, interest-free payments, yet your garment ships in our next shipment.

•Colors: black

•Fabric(s): silk, wool

•Lined: fully

•Closures: rear metal zipper, bound buttonholes + rear buttons

•Designer/Labels: dress labeled Pierre Balmain - Paris and the jacket labeled Pierre Balmain - New York - Paris as shown; Harold - Minneapolis store label in the dress. Both pieces originated paired together from same closet/estate.

All accessories (belts, jewelry, crinolines, pins, etc.) are for style inspiration only unless indicated.


Fits about a modern XS; please allow room for fit/ease! There is little to NO give, but these high end pieces do have interior allowances to permit tailoring as may be  feasible/desired

Bust (underarm area measured flat, then doubled) 31"/32"

Waist to about 23" max

Hips full

Shoulder to waist area about 16 1/2"

Shoulder to hem about 44 1/2" and has about 2 1/2" hem turned up

Jacket bust about 36"

Jacket length, shoulder to hem about 12 1/4"

Sleeves, shoulder to cuff about 16"

Shoulders seam to seam about 15 1/2"


Presents beautifully. Cleaned gently. Unfaded. This set is 65+ years old.

Dress - a tiny touch of fray along the seam edges of the chiffon fabric under each arm (hidden during wear). A little pulling/fray at chiffon at the center plunge bust point. These issues are not noticed when worn, but could be remedied easily if desired.

Jacket - one grain of rice-sized scuff by its bow (does not go through; jacket fully lined). A pinhole on the wool fabric capping one rear button.

We have posted 22 photos allowing you to evaluate closely. Dress set remains beyond spectacular, truly for the collector who wants the best of the best.

Price includes full insurance/tracking, and set cannot be shipped without it.


Our pieces are true vintage with a history and a past life, not newly made reproductions. Please be familiar with vintage clothing and read over our shop policies before purchasing. We are happy to answer any questions you might have to help you with online purchasing. 

Return & Refund Policy

Vintage is sold as-is and all sales are final. All vintage garments will show signs of previous wear and use, including deadstock and unworn pieces. We take extra care to note and/or photograph any imperfections we find. You can read our thousands of happy reviews on Etsy and eBay for an idea of the quality and high standards we strive to keep.



Be sure your address is correct and up to date. We aren't responsible for items marked as DELIVERED that have been misplaced or stolen after delivery, so be sure you are shipping to a secure location.

Insurance is ALWAYS available for an upgrade.

Items are shipped 2x a week in batches. We are not responsible for delays that happen that are outside of our personal control. 

Expedited/Express shipping is often available for an additional fee. Contact us before purchasing any item(s) you need expedited in order to arrange for this upgrade.

VAT and Import Taxes

Buyer is responsible for any taxes, VAT, or other fees imposed by your country.

Items returned to us by your postal service for non-payment of taxes will incur re-shipping costs. If you do not pay to reship in a timely manner (7 days) your order will be considered abandoned and returned to inventory or donated. 

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